St Edward’s Church & the Tolkien Door
Start here. The church itself dates from the 11th century, built on the site of an even earlier Saxon church, and it’s a beautiful building. But the reason most people come is the north entrance.
Two ancient yew trees grow on either side of a medieval stone archway, their trunks twisted and expanded over centuries until they’ve become part of the door frame itself.
The door is widely believed to have inspired J.R.R. Tolkien’s Doors of Durin in The Lord of the Rings. The famous inscription “speak, friend, and enter” doesn’t appear here, but looking at those old yew trees framing the ancient wood, you completely understand the connection. Tolkien was a scholar at Oxford and a regular visitor to the Cotswolds, and there are accounts of him seeing this door so it could be the truth.
Go in the morning for the best light and smaller crowds. Tour groups start arriving mid-morning in summer and the photo queue can get long.
The Porch House
The Porch House claims to be the oldest inn in England. Parts of the building date to around 947 AD, with timber carbon-dated to the 10th century. It was originally built as a hospice for pilgrims on the orders of the Saxon ruler Wythgar, later run by the Knights Hospitaller, and gradually evolved over the centuries into the inn it is today.
If you go inside, look for the witch marks carved into the 16th century fireplace in the dining room. These symbols were scratched into the stone deliberately to protect the building from evil spirits. It’s a cute place with a fun story.
The Market Square
Let’s go back to the Market Square. The heart of Stow-on-the-Wold and one of the most interesting market squares in the Cotswolds, once you know what to look for.
Markets have been held here since 1107, over 20.000 sheep passed through this square on a single market day. Look at the narrow alleyways leading off the square, the ones just wide enough for one or two people to walk through. They’re called “tures” and they were used to funnel sheep from the surrounding fields and streets into the market. The sheep came in through these passages and were sold on the square. Today they’re full of antique shops and independent cafes.
The square today is lined with independent shops, antique stores, cafes, and pubs. There’s a monthly farmers’ market where you’ll find local jams, pies, and handmade goods.
Lucy’s Tea Room: Afternoon Tea
If there’s one thing to do in Stow-on-the-Wold beyond the sightseeing, it’s afternoon tea at Lucy’s Tea Room. We did this and it was genuinely one of our favourite moments of the whole UK road trip.
We ordered the classic afternoon tea: freshly made sandwiches, warm scones with butter, jam, and a selection of homemade cakes. We went for the ham and mustard sandwiches and the egg salad sandwiches, and everything was excellent. The cakes especially. There’s something about eating scones in a Cotswolds tea room that feels so British, I don’t know, this was one of our favourite things on this roadtrip.
Book in advance if you can, or try your luck walking in. Either way, don’t skip it, everything is so tasty and delicious.
What else can you do in Stow-on-the-Wold?
Stow-on-the-Wold is the place for antiques. If that’s your thing, you could spend a full afternoon just browsing the shops around the square and there are many of them. There are also many art gallery’s that you can visit.
Additionally, the Gypsy Horse Fair takes place in May and October, hundreds of travellers from across the UK come together to trade horses. It’s a very different side of the town if you happen to be there for it.
Where to Park in Stow-on-the-Wold?
Stow-on-the-Wold has free parking around the Market Square, which is convenient. But it fills up quickly in summer. If you can’t find a space on the square, head down Digbeth Street near The Porch House and there’s usually free street parking available. The town is small enough that wherever you end up parking, you won’t be far from anything.
Where to stay in in Stow-on-the-Wold?
Here are some accomodation recommendation if you want to stay in Stow-on-the-Wold:
There’s a rhyme about the place that dates from the 18th century: “Stow-on-the-Wold, where the wind blows cold.” The hilltop position means it can get a bit windy. We visited on a hot summer day so the wind was more than welcome. Doesn’t matter when you visit, you will have a lovely time. Even if you just want to knock on the Tolkien Door.
Until next time, be mesmerized 💛
